On the winding road form Setúbal to Portinho da Arrábida, south of Lisbon, a gap suddenly opens up in the greenery. Below, the water turns emerald, flirts with pastel blue, and stays crystal-clear. It is here, on the side of a cliff, that Galapinhos appears.

Nestled in the Serra da Arrábida Natural Park, this beach, which is still relatively undeveloped, seems to be resisting the siren call of mass tourism. No clutter of restaurants, no parasols for rent. Just a clean curve of fine sand, a clear sea that never ceases to amaze, and the feeling of having found a secret that the coast keeps for a few connoisseurs.

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A hidden gem in the Arrábida Natural Park

Far from the hustle and bustle of the big seaside resorts, Galapinhos remains a confidential treasure away from the evils of urbanisation. Its name, an affectionate diminutive of the word galápago (freshwater turtle), is meant to evoke its softly curving shape and the peacefulness of its waters. In 2017, however, it was suddenly thrust into the limelight: voted Europe’s most beautiful beach by European Best Destinations, it has since attracted a cautious following, driven by those who reject concrete in favour of the sublime.

Getting there is something to be earned. A steep path down from the main road, along a path of stones and pines, requires hiking shoes and a bit of stamina. But at the end of the path, all your efforts will be well rewarded. At low tide, the water forms natural pools eroded from the rock, perfect for spotting tiny fish and anemones usually invisible in the sea. The landscape alternates between limestone cliffs, Mediterranean plantlife and silvery reflections on the water.

A smooth sea, reflecting a fragile ecosystem

Protected by the park’s geography, Galapinhos enjoys smooth, almost motionless seas, with only gentle waves lapping the shore. This is due to the crescent shape of the inlet, which acts as a natural shield against the winds and currents. The area attracts snorkellers, drawn by the clear waters and the sheer variety of marine life.

Created in 1976, the Arrábida Nature Park plays a decisive role in the preservation of this corner of paradise. Its endemic flora – umbrella pines, rockroses, rosemary – grows along the paths, and the ban on building new infrastructures keeps Galapinhos timeless. Visitors usually set up camp right on the sand, carrying their coolers, parasols and rucksacks, as if on a leisurely expedition to a world away from it all.

The Portuguese authorities regularly remind visitors of the need to preserve the fragile ecosystem of the site. Shuttles and car parks have been set up in the heights of the Serra to limit the influx of cars on the coastal road, one of the most spectacular in the country but also one of the most vulnerable to erosion.

A great detour just an hour from Lisbon

It’s just over an hour’s drive from the Lisbon city centre to the Serra da Arrábida. It’s a great alternative to the busier beaches of Cascais or Costa da Caparica. Galapinhos offers something different: luxury and beauty without a fuss. Unlike the standard resorts, it speaks an ancient language of silence, natural light and direct contact with the land.

People come here to get away form it all, to read without any disturbance, and to float for a long time in a sea without current. You’ll find yourself returning for the colour of the water, the whiteness of the sand, the song of the cicadas, and the feeling of having crossed an invisible boundary between the everyday and the important.